Friday, 13 March 2009

Natural born sellers

One of the few downsides to Cambodia is the constant harassment by the local kids selling stuff, particulary at the Angkor temples. Each and every time anyone emerges from a ruins they are met buy anything from 1 to 6 kids heading towards them fast. Instantly they go for the kill and you'll soon find yourself surrounded with handfulls of bracelets, books and postcards blocking your vision with the constant calls of "One dollar, one dollar. You want? One dollar, one dollar" going through you head. A simple no thanks and speedy direct walk away will not be enough to detere them either, they're hard little people to shake. I heard of one couple buying something so the kids would leave them alone, but actually it just made the rest more determined and even attracted more. Driving away in their tuk-tuk, the only way the extra children could think to get the couples attention was run after them throwing things at their vehicle, no doubt shouting "One dollar, one dollar" as they did!

Match that with the adults sales technique. Whilst the kids are spread out doing their thing, the mums are based at their bamboo shack stalls. Approaching a row of stalls you'll enjoy silence before getting within a 10 metre radius of a women will snap her into action. "Lady! You want cold drink?! One dollar lady!". A few more steps and you enter into the action zone of the next stall and the two voices begin drilling into you. Continue walking and easily you can set 10 women off all at once. It's only worse when you do actually need a drink and have to face them. They all compete to practically put the water in your hand and take your money before you understand what's just happened. Indeed, walking past a food area, I'm instantly surrounded and handed about 5 menus all at once. I feel like a teacher grading each one, asking who's it is and feeling as though I should make a positive comment about it before returning it. "Who's is this one? It's very good. And this one? Who's is this? Very nice..." Stupid thing being I didn't even want food, just was in the wrong place at the wrong time. One lady knew exactly how to deal with the sleepy sunrise tourists. Somehow she'd got me to agree something I liked in theory, then instatlty put the shout through to the cook. I'm left conpletely dazed sat at a table waiting for a breakfast I didn't realise I'd ordered or want. Other tourists smiled with empathy as they sat eating meals they probably hadn't planned on either.

The kids however are something else. Having woken up a bit I'm ready for them, and on the most part the hassle I get doesn't last too long per child. But every now and then one will surprise me. Asked if I want a bracelet, then postcards and then cold drinks, I respond 'no thank you' each time. "So you want nothing?" she says, and I agree wholeheartedly. "Nothing costs 10 dollars". Damn it! She made me laugh so now I'm in trouble. She reals me off a pile of facts about London that I didn't know. Things like the population and such. I'm holding steady though and am not happy to enter into a repour with her, it's a trick. Next she hands me a bracelet that I refuse over and over insisting I have no plans to buy from her. "If you don't take it, it means you don't like me". Damn it again! She's tugged on the heartstrings and now I have to take it. Finally she leaves me be for half hour on the agreement that if suddenly I do feel the need for postcards, bracelets or cold drinks, she's the first person I'll go see.

Unfortuantly, my attempts to sneak back to my tuk-tuk are scarpered as she spies me. She turns up the sales patter and I'm left apologising again and again for not wanting anything. It was horrible, she really guilt tripped me with "Sorry isn't going to help me go to school" and insisted she understood that I didn't need a drink so encouraged me to by for my driver. I'm walking away as fast as I can making pathetic excuses to the 10 year old like "my driver's waiting for me" rather than being strong enough to just be blunt. She hits back with "He can wait. You're paying him". Damn it once more! She's right. I'm nearly running by the end as she accepts I don't want postcards but tells me to buy for my friends. Eventually I escape but feel terrible about myself. I'm a bad person because tomorrow she won't go to school (but she will, she's smarter than me already), I didn't get my driver a drink (but I was already paying him too much and I gave him half a pack of cookies) and because my friends don't mean enough to me for me to buy them a few postcards (but my friends don't want postcards...I don't think). Anyway, that girl was good.

In the city their tact is simpler. In a cafe, they'll just pull up a chair right next to and repeat over and over and over "Buy a book. Buy a book. Buy a book. Buy a book and I'll go away. Buy a book..." whilst sometimes squeezing your arm with each repeat. This is followed by them personally reccomending each book in their basket before getting frustrated and not excepting that simply not wanting a book is a valid excuse, unless they do, in which case they switch to "Buy me food. Buy me food. Buy me food." Grrrrrrrrrr!

4 comments:

  1. those kids sound like the gypsies robbing defenceles women in Moscow :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hey Nic

    We are home. It took us about 26 hours to get back from our beautiful island retreat of Phi Phi, it involved two long tail boats a ferry (where some poor thai sailor got his foot badly crushed trying to disembark some stupid tourists) a taxi and two planes. I know you would rather get a train for 7 weeks if possible?

    Krabi was fun, did some elephant trekking, lazed around in the sun a lot, don’t forget to feed the wild monkeys at Ao Nang beach and take the rickety wooden stairs over the cliff to a much better beach. However the real fun to be had here is taking the longtail boats to different islands, Railey beach is a short distance from Ao Nang if you want to climb. Bamboo Island is worth seeing because it is a lovely beach but they will charge you a further 200 baht for the pleasure. Mosquito Island has a great reef around it if you fancy a bit of snorkelling, mind out for the pesky jelly fish, maybe it should be called Jelly Fish island. If you get time Phi Phi is beautiful, it is a two hour ferry trip from Krabi and the beaches at the very north of the island where we stayed are stunning.

    It was great to see you by the way. Katrina still has her holy water.

    Take care and keep posting when you have time.

    Iain and Katrina x

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hey! I was thinking of you both yesterday wondering whether you'd be heading back yet. Pleased you got home safely and it wasn't your foot that suffered. 26 hours sounds like quite a trip, bet you were pleased it was over. Thought I'd been having a few mission journies myself, but nothing to rival that. I definitely think you should seriously consider taking the train next time. Actually I've been thinking about it a lot recently and reckon you could get home in about 2-3 weeks on the rails (without stops).

    Accomodation improved dramatically for me once I left Bangkok (after the Death Railway I had one more night in the big city before heading Cambodia and I opted to stay in that really cheap place I avoided at first. It's bad!) Everywhere else has been great for the price though and I even get my own plug sockets!

    Thanks for the run-down of the area, that's all really useful. I plan to have about 7-10 days there so definitely hope to get to Phi Phi, but maybe not where you stayed! How was your place? Any more free fruit?

    Those islands all sound really good too so I shouldn't get bored. Do jellyfish hurt?

    I've still got some cereal as I couldn't work out the milk in Cambodia so thought best not risk wasting any flakes on the wrong stuff. Now in Ho Chi Minh City, I'm going to sus out the milk supply later. Really had to ration myself in Thailand though. Thank you so much for bringing it, it tastes AMAZING!

    Thanks for writing, it really was great to see you both too, I really enjoyed catching up. Look forward to seeing you both again on my return. (In a reverse of the Trainspotting cold-turkey thing, I plan to lock myself in my room for a week to drink solidly and rebuild my alcohol tollerance!)

    x

    ReplyDelete
  4. I'd really like a postcard actually!! x

    ReplyDelete